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There’s no doubt that Italy is a feast for all the senses, especially the sense of taste. Italian food products and cuisine have infiltrated just about every corner of the globe, but there’s no comparison to trying classic Italian recipes at their source—and there’s so much more than pizza, pasta, and gelato. Italian cuisine is very regional, so don’t expect to find the same dishes on menus all over the country. Forget about spaghetti with meatballs and chicken parm—when in Italy, embrace the local cuisine. From carbonara in Rome to the best street food in Palermo, each Italian region has its own recipes.
As an American living in Rome, I love traveling around the country and tasting the local specialties. Some of my favorite travel memories are snacking on cicchetti (small snacks) overlooking a canal in Venice, eating a comforting bowl of tagliatelle al ragù (pasta with meat sauce) on a rainy day in Bologna, sampling street food at the Vucciria Market in Palermo, and doing a balsamic vinegar tasting at an acetaia (a place where balsamic vinegar is aged) in Modena. I’ve dined at Michelin-starred restaurants, humble hole-in-the-wall sandwich shops, and everything in between.
But in order to get even more expert tips, I tapped fellow Rome-based writer Maria Pasquale, whose new book Mangia: How to Eat Your Way Through Italy was just released in the U.S. Read on for our picks of the best Italian cities for foodies—and what to eat when you go to each one.
Rome
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The Eternal City’s restaurant scene is diversifying lately, with everything from excellent sushi to innovative fine dining, but when in Rome, you really should start with the classics. At most old-school Roman trattorias and restaurants, you can find the quartet of Roman pastas—cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and gricia—and you really should try them all. If you want a quick lunch or a snack, you can grab a slice or two of pizza or try the quintessential Roman sandwich, pizza e mortazza (pizza bianca stuffed with thin slices of mortadella). And don’t forget about supplì (oval-shaped fried rice balls with a crunchy breadcrumb exterior), which you can get at pizzerias and street food spots like Supplizio.
Florence
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Like Rome, Florence has options for every taste and budget. You can dine around the Mercato Centrale, sampling crostini or pasta topped with truffles foraged in the surrounding countryside, enjoy a succulent bistecca alla fiorentina (the massive T-bone steak made with premium Chianina beef) at a bustling trattoria, or savor a tasting menu at a fancy Michelin-starred restaurant. “Be adventurous and look out for the many sandwich trucks piling tripe into bread rolls,” says Pasquale. “This age-old tradition is called lampredotto, and around here they top them with a rich salsa verde.”
Bologna
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One of Bologna’s nicknames is “La Grassa” (meaning “the Fat One”), so you can imagine that the Bolognesi love to eat. Some of Italy’s most famous food products come from Bologna and the wider Emilia Romagna region; just think about Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, and mortadella. Traditional dishes tend to be hearty and filling—just what you need to warm up on cold winter nights. When in Bologna, you should definitely try tortellini in brodo (pasta in broth), tagliatelle al ragù (what we typically think of as bolognese sauce), and lasagna. I love the cozy Ristorante Grassilli, where the walls are covered with black-and-white photos of famous guests, and the historic Ristorante Diana, where the waiters serve tortellini in brodo tableside out of a big silver tureen.
Milan
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Did you know that the fried cutlets famous in Vienna as Wiener schnitzel likely originated in Milan? Legend has it that an Austrian general trying to keep Milan under Habsburg control in the late 19th century brought the recipe for cotoletta alla milanese back to Vienna. Served at traditional Milanese restaurants, the cutlet is one of the top dishes to try, along with saffron-infused risotto alla milanese. Milan also has an exciting international food scene these days. But wherever you decide to dine, be sure to start your evening with a pre-dinner aperitivo (drink) at one of the city’s bars. You can’t go wrong with the Negroni sbagliato at Bar Basso, where it was invented, or an americano at Camparino inside the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Modena
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Die-hard foodies have been known to plan an entire trip around a reservation at Osteria Francescana, the three-Michelin-starred temple to fine dining by famed chef Massimo Bottura. Having grown up here, Bottura draws inspiration from the local bounty and even has his own acetaia at Casa Maria Luigia, the boutique hotel that he and his wife Lara Gilmore run. “If you can’t get into Osteria Francescana, enjoy the more casual dishes at Bottura’s bistro outpost Franceschetta 58,” Pasquale says. “The Emilia burger is a must, and the signature tortellini with Parmigiano Reggiano cream are on the menu too.”
Turin
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“This elegant former capital of Italy is one of my favorite cities,” Pasquale gushes. Once ruled by the House of Savoy, whose territory extended into France, Turin is now the capital of Piedmont, a region known for fine wine, truffles, hazelnuts, and chocolate. The city is full of sophisticated cafés, where locals gather for specialty espresso drinks or aperitivo. “Stuff your face with gianduiotti (a local chocolate) at any of the cafes in and around Piazza San Carlo. And wash it down with bicerin, a coffee-slash-hot chocolate topped with whipped cream,” Pasquale says.
Palermo
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You can expect to eat very well anywhere in Sicily, but as the island’s capital, Palermo has a culinary edge. The city is especially well known for its street food. “A trip to Palermo wouldn’t be complete without a walk through one of the markets. Ballarò or La Vucciria will give you a real (and literal) taste of local life,” Pasquale notes. “The bartering and vibe are a nod to Sicily’s Arab history, and nowadays you’ll see innards frying on pans to the soundtrack of the likes of Beyoncé. A panino con panelle (bread roll stuffed with chickpea fritters) or câ meusa (stuffed with spleen) is a right of passage.”
Naples
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As the birthplace of pizza, Naples is naturally the best place to get it. “Go to Naples for the classic, iconic margherita pizza, but don’t leave without trying a pizza fritta on the street. Calzone-style, the most popular one is stuffed with ricotta and crispy pork shavings,” Pasquale says. Of course, there’s so much more to Naples than pizza. Try traditional dishes like pasta con patate e provola (pasta with potatoes and provolone cheese) at Mimì alla Ferrovia and sip espresso (Naples is especially famous for its excellent coffee) at the elegant Caffè Gambrinus. Pasquale also suggests tasting the city’s most beloved pastry. “If you’re a sweet tooth like me, try the sfogliatella Santa Rosa at Antico Forno Fratelli Attanasio.”
Venice
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In this city where visitors outnumber residents, it can be easy to fall into a tourist trap, but if you do your research and head away from the crowds, you can find authentic Venetian restaurants. “Take a day trip to Burano (not just because its colorful buildings are not to be missed) for lunch at Trattoria al Gatto Nero and order the risotto di gò or risotto alla buranella, which is what islander locals call this dish that showcases lagoon fish. While you’re there, don’t miss the fried moeche, typical tiny soft crabs,” Pasquale suggests. When in Venice, cicchetti (Venetian-style tapas) are a must. I love the ones at Cantina del Vino gìa Schiavi, an old-school wine bar in Dorsoduro.
Lecce
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The heel of the boot, Puglia has a delicious culinary tradition rooted in cucina povera (poor cuisine). Once you try the freshest burrata in Puglia, where it originates, you’ll realize that nothing else compares. You might have it as an antipasto and then try the orecchiette con cime di rapa (fresh orecchiette pasta with broccoli rabe), another classic regional dish. But be sure to save room for a pasticciotto, an oval pastry filled with custard and sometimes cherries. In Lecce, you can eat them with a cappuccino for breakfast, as dessert, or just as a snack. Try them at Caffè Alvino or Pasticceria Natale, which also makes delicious gelato.
