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Ambergris Caye, Belize Travel Guide

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Peeking above aquamarine waves that hide the world’s second-largest barrier reef, Belize’s Ambergris Caye first emerged as a destination for the daring. Drawing collectors of great experiences, like diving the depths of the Great Blue Hole or chasing after 100-pound tarpon on deep-sea fishing charters, it was first and foremost a Caribbean island synonymous with adventure.

Bigger and buzzier hotels and resorts, and even a Six Senses property set to debut later this year, are popping up along its white sands as Ambergris Caye steps into a new spotlight. “Visitors are discovering there’s so much to do in Ambergris Caye, beyond just the fishing and diving that first brought people here,” says Scott McArdle, general manager of Alaia Belize, Autograph Collection. “In the span of just one day, you can enjoy traditional Belizean cuisine on the beach, visit Maya ruins, and even sail out to lovely little Caye Caulker.”

Despite the island’s growing appeal among luxury travelers, its adventurous side still draws an eclectic crew ready to crack open a coconut and ease into island time. With vast swaths of tangled mangrove forests and untouched stretches of coastline, Ambergris Caye greets both types of travelers with something supremely special.

Top 5 Can’t Miss

  • Climb to the rooftop infinity pool at Alaia Belize for breathtaking views over white sands and blue seas at a resort that marries modern luxury with island-focused fun and flare.
  • The protected waters of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve are ripe for snorkeling amidst colorful corals, curious sea turtles, and darting schools of tropical fish.
  • Dine directly in the water at Secret Beach, where a stretch of crystal-clear shallows and sand lined with lively beach bars feels anything but secret.
  • Elvi’s Kitchen, a San Pedro staple for over four decades, serves fresh Belizean cuisine and authentic, Maya-inspired dishes you won’t want to miss.
  • Grab a golf cart and hit the road to explore beyond tiny San Pedro’s three main streets, heading for the island’s untamed, undeveloped beaches.

Best Hotels and Resorts

The pool at Alaia Belize.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


Alaia Belize, Autograph Collection

Seriously spacious suites, a full-service spa, and a different restaurant and bar to try every evening make the new Alaia Belize the darling of Ambergris Caye. An elevated rooftop infinity pool, reserved for adults, is a favorite spot for sunset cocktails, offering 360-degree views across the island and sea. You’ll probably never want to leave, but in case you do, the concierge can coordinate everything from deep-sea fishing charters to treks to long-lost Maya ruins deep in the jungle. You can even get PADI certified at the resort’s own onsite dive and snorkel excursion shop.

Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club, Curio Collection by Hilton

With over 200 rooms spread across its collection of cottages, suites, and villas, Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club is one of the larger resorts in Belize. Despite its size, its unparalleled commitment to local heritage, craftsmanship, and second-to-none service makes it feel like a boutique property through and through. A favorite amenity is the resort’s private beach club, accessible by water taxi and complete with a full-service beach bar and grill, as well as cabanas and hammocks suspended over impossibly clear waters.

Matachica Resort & Spa

The “private by nature” tagline of Matachica Resort & Spa, part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, feels supremely fitting for this secluded sanctuary by the water. Thatched-roof casitas set directly on the sand feel like an instant invitation to unwind. All that tranquility is met by bold Caribbean flavors at Mambo and live music-powered happy hours at Danny’s Treebar, wrapped around one of the property’s old-growth trees.

Victoria House Resort & Spa

One of the first major resorts to open in the country over four decades ago, Victoria House Resort & Spa has had years of experience perfecting the art of the beachfront vacation in Belize. Set across 10 sprawling acres of sand are just 42 rooms, casitas, and villas that match modern luxuries with casual Caribbean cool, though the original Admiral Nelson’s palapa-style beach bar is still the place to be.

Best Things to Do

Clear water of Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


Snorkel or dive in Hol Chan Marine Reserve.

The protected waters of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve sit just a few miles south of Ambergris Caye, home to some of the richest areas of the nation’s barrier reef, including the world’s best snorkeling and dream-worthy dive sites. Shark Ray Alley is a particularly popular area with visitors who dare to snorkel alongside turtles, stingrays, and even nurse sharks that slide peacefully through crystalline waters.

Go fishing.

Before beautiful new resorts started putting Ambergris Caye on the map with vacationers, fishermen flocked to bare-bones fishing lodges to enjoy long days spent in pursuit of the “Grand Slam” catch of bonefish, tarpon, and permit. World-class fishing along the island’s reefs, in the shallow flats, and amidst deep blue ocean make half-day and full-day charters one of the best ways to pass the time, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced angler.

Visit Secret Beach.

“Secret Beach is Ambergris Caye’s worst-kept secret,” quips Beth Clifford, owner of Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club. She estimates that up to 80 percent of the guests at her resort make the 45-minute drive north to see what all the hype is about. The shallow, clear waters of the island’s west coast lap against white sand at a beachfront lined with bars and restaurants famed for placing umbrella-shaded tables directly in the water to keep patrons cool. Expect a vibrant atmosphere, perhaps too boisterous for some, at any time of day.

Take a day trip to the jungle.

“Belize is well known for the ‘sand and stone’ experience, where visitors spend a couple of days on the mainland in a jungle lodge searching out Maya ruins and learning how to make chocolate before spending a couple more out on the islands,” explains McArdle. But from Ambergris Caye, spending the day exploring Maya pyramids and archeological sites is an easy day trip. Tour providers and resort concierges can organize the entire experience so you make it back in time for happy hour by the sea.

Best Restaurants

Colorful exterior of Caramba restaurant.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


Elvi’s Kitchen

When Doña Elvia started serving food from a tiny takeout window at her house in San Pedro almost four decades ago, she could have never guessed that one day her cuisine would be considered some of the best in Ambergris Caye. Elvi’s Kitchen is now a favorite with locals and tourists alike for dishes like fresh fish prepared in Maya adobo sauce and even unique vegan and vegetarian dishes like coconut ceviche and curry.

Caramba Restaurant

The food at Caramba Restaurant is so fresh “they’ll let you pick out the exact fish you want to eat for dinner,” says Richard Evanich, managing director at Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club. A seafood-heavy menu with everything from octopus and snapper to lobster tails features Caribbean and Mexican-inspired dishes at what is one of San Pedro’s most popular restaurants.

El Fogón

Giant pots filled with soups, stews, and curries simmer over open flames at El Fogón, a local staple in downtown San Pedro known for using age-old cooking techniques to craft flavorful Belizean dishes like beef stew and fish soup paired with coconut rice. Open from Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, this tiny restaurant gets busy, so reservations are recommended.

Blue Bayou

The first overwater restaurant and bar at Secret Beach, Blue Bayou inspired the now ubiquitous in-water dining at Ambergris Caye’s not-to-secret beach spot. Cold beers and frozen cocktails are a must, but a surprisingly varied menu of dishes ranging from ceviche and grilled fish to fried conch fritter awaits beachgoers as well.

Neri’s Tacos

Ask any local where to grab a budget-friendly bite in San Pedro, and they’re bound to recommend Neri’s Tacos, where authentic Mexican street food reminds you the border is just a stone’s throw away. Just two blocks from the airport, it’s a popular first stop for visitors as soon as they arrive on the island.

Areas to Visit

A beach in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


San Pedro

Just three main streets run north to south through San Pedro, the only town on Ambergris Caye. Despite its tiny size, San Pedro is home to a mix of excursion-peddling tour companies, affordable accommodations, and restaurants and bars catering to everyone from salty fishermen and budget backpackers to vacationers headed for resorts. It sits just below a divide in the island crossed by a bridge, marking distinct north and south sides of the island.

The North End

Cross the bridge from San Pedro and feel the tranquility set in as you head north through mostly undeveloped stretches of mangrove forest that kiss beautiful beaches along the coast. Many of the island’s larger, more upscale resorts are found on this part of the island, but go too far, and you’ll hit bumpy roads that remind you it’s often easier to travel by sea in Ambergris Caye.

The South End

The southern part of Ambergris Caye is home to San Pedro, but head further south for a quieter area dotted with private residences, villas, and a handful of resorts that make the most of the island’s beautiful beachfront. With nicer roads, it’s easier to access this part of the island.

Best Time to Visit

A beach at Alaia Belize.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


The best time to visit Ambergris Caye is between December and April when pleasant, sunny days transform the island into the beachy haven that winter-weary visitors crave. May and June tend to be a nice shoulder season when lower prices and nice weather converge, but keep in mind that the Atlantic hurricane season runs from June to November and brings a chance of tropical storms.

Fishermen flock to Ambergris Caye year-round, though local guides say it tends to be particularly easy to catch the most sought-after species between June and early September. Dedicated snorkelers and divers will do better to book a trip for the drier months between December and April, when unbeatable underwater visibility gives Ambergris Caye some of the clearest waters in the world.

The convergence of Belize’s Independence Day and the festive St. George’s Caye Day in the first weeks of September bring local festivals, parades, carnivals, and plenty of traditional Belizean bites to the island. “It’s a great time to experience a bit more of the local culture, and is conveniently the most affordable time to visit the island,” says McArdle.

How to Get There

A woman on a small plane to Ambergris Caye.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


For most, the journey to Ambergris Caye starts by arriving at Belize City’s Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport (BZE). United Airlines offers the most flights to Belize City of any carrier, with nonstop service from Houston, Newark, Chicago, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Denver. However, several major carriers also offer flights into the city from across the U.S., some with seasonally dependent frequency.

From Belize City, a short, 15-minute flight on small aircraft from local carriers Tropic Air or Maya Island Air connect travelers to San Pedro Airport (SPR). Flights depart from Belize City’s international and municipal airports and boast breathtaking views over the electric-blue waters of the Caribbean that make the journey just one more part of the experience. Alternatively, water taxis and ferries connect the island to the city, making multiple daily journeys.

How to Get Around

Cars parked in San Pedro.

Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure


Downtown San Pedro is compact and walkable, so most visitors staying close to the city center won’t need to worry about transportation once they’re settled in. Those staying a little further from town, or simply looking for a little more adventure, will love that golf carts are the most popular mode of transportation on the island. They’re rentable from local shops like Carts Belize or from some of the island’s larger hotels and resorts.

“There’s a certain appeal to taking off in a golf cart and exploring the island, especially its more remote beaches, with freedom,” says McArdle, “but the best way to get around the island is really by boat.” Avoid the uneven, unpaved roads on more untouched stretches of the island by skirting around the shores, especially to destinations like Secret Beach. 

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