From Margot Tenenbaum to the Paris Olympics, Baum und Pferdgarten’s Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave often begin their collections with a specific reference in mind. But for fall 2025, the designers struggled for a long time to settle on a theme, particularly given the multiple crises the world is facing right now. In the end, they decided to call the collection Heartbeats— “that feeling of, ‘OK, then we just do what our hearts are beating for,’” Baumgarten explained in a preview.

Giant inflatable hearts dotted around the runway were a literal take on the show’s title; as were the sparkly heart-shaped bags carried by models, as Robyn’s 2007 hit “With Every Heartbeat” blared from the speakers. Less obvious, though, was the inspiration taken from the designers’ love of both the British countryside and Oasis (apt, given the hype around the Gallagher brothers’ forthcoming reunion tour). This sparked the strongest section of the collection, from the green tweed blazer and puff-ball miniskirt to the pinstripe tailoring and olive corduroy separates. The brand’s popular Harrington coats featured again this season, this time rendered in a leopard print. There was also a collaboration with Danish artist Lulu Kaalund, who created abstract crochet pieces depicting natural landscapes—adding a real sense of heart to the collection.

Bow-adorned dresses seemed somewhat incongruous with the rest of the offering, as did the ruffled denim mini. While the nebulous nature of the theme may have resulted in a less cohesive edit than in recent seasons, the message of following your heart is one we could all take on board in these uncertain times.