“Girls, where’s Adam Lambert?!” Moments before the Christian Siriano show kicked off in Chelsea, a flurry of nervous PRs scattered around the venue in search of the last VIP guest to arrive. (Eventually Lambert sauntered in, wearing a fabulous coat-dress.) Panic over a MIA celebrity is not an unusual sight at a Siriano show, which always draws a starry crowd: His front row this season included other notable names including Katie Holmes, Tiffany Haddish, and Laverne Cox. And no wonder: Siriano once again delivered an array of theatrical gowns and sexy suits that practically beg for a Hollywood red carpet appearance. “I was really inspired by this idea of futurism and modern technology this season,” said Siriano post-show, “as well as the lines and curves found within the auto world.”
While Siriano often leans into extravagance, his opening looks felt decidedly more sober this season—in shades of black and red, a hue that is often associated with love, power, or anger. “I was thinking of that iconic red car that you grew up loving,” said Siriano. But power, whether intentional or not, did seep into Siriano’s red assortment: His corseted, latex-like gown laced up the back had a sense of severity, and his blue cocooned mini dress, restricting one arm on the interior, had an edge to it. The clothes seemed to nod to the fact that there’s a lot to be on edge about in these times—whether the worrisome political climate or the future of the economy. (Siriano himself had a Toyota parked right in the middle of the catwalk, a nod to his inspiration but also a blatant form of product placement—someone’s gotta pay those hefty production bills.)
But Siriano’s collection was far from depressing or pessimistic: he still offered glitz and glamour, what he does best. As usual, the most refined eveningwear offerings shone the brightest. His white capped-sleeve midi dress, with an asymmetrical drape across the front, had just the right amount of drama, as did strapless sequined gowns with fitted bodices. The slicked jersey dresses made reference to oil spills. Other moments—like the one-shouldered red tulle and sequin number, modeled by Winnie Harlow—leaned way more outré, like a character straight out of the Capitol in the Hunger Games. You can’t deny the garments are fun, even if they’re too much.
As for more newness, Siriano leaned further into menswear this season, sending out a variety of cropped, ab-bearing tuxedo looks. Or perhaps the looks were not meant for one particular gender at all—a refreshing approach when the Trump administration is hellbent on only acknowledging two genders. The skin-bearing looks were daring and certainly not for everyone, and many of the pieces were derivative (especially the stretch jersey numbers, which were giving Balenciaga). But Siriano has always been an advocate for inclusivity and body diversity on the runway, and his open-minded designs once again reminded guests of his unique point-of-view—that fashion should be for everyone. And you’re bound to see some of these clothes on a step and repeat very soon.
