Elisabetta Franchi knows exactly what she wants—and designs for women who know exactly what they want and feel no need to prove it. “Sometimes I bring pieces to the runway that I wouldn’t wear—not because I don’t like them, but because they don’t represent me or make me feel comfortable in front of the mirror. But in the fall collection there isn’t a single piece I wouldn’t wear. I feel like it truly belongs to me” said the designer.
The show took place at Palazzo Acerbi, a Baroque gem from the 16th century in the heart of the city, known to Milanese locals as “the devil’s house.” Legend has it that Marquis Ludovico Acerbi, a socialite ante litteram known for his defiant opulence, continued throwing lavish parties even as the plague ravaged the city in 1630, yet it seemed that anyone in his presence remained untouched by the disease. The idea of Franchi’s women walking through those rooms, bold, seductive, without fear, intrigued her. And if there was one defining piece in the aesthetic language of the fall collection, it was the pencil skirt. In denim, faux croc leather, jersey, intricately embroidered or in its more classic version, it sculpted the body just like the dresses that echoed its silhouette. “A few years ago, a female entrepreneur couldn’t wear one to a bank meeting. But today women no longer need to dress like men to be taken seriously” said Franchi.
While evoking the minimalist codes of the ’90s, the collection also recalled the era when Franchi first entered the industry. It took shape in the contrast between the precision of tailored pieces and the confident femininity of more seductive garments, between moments of glamour and everyday wear. The dominant hues were black and coffee brown, while merlot infused the palette with sensuality. Faux furs added a touch of drama to her bold, unapologetic vision.
Closing the show was what the designer called “the simplest dress in the world,” a black body-hugging gown with a high neckline and long sleeves. It encapsulated the essence of simplicity and femininity that she sought.
