The pitmaster behind “Howdy Child” at Pearl’s Food Hall cuts a striking profile.
Mattison “Matti” Bills stands 5-foot-3, smokes award-winning meat, cultivates a small urban farm and was once recognized for making the best pastrami in Texas.
In the haze of thick, barbecue smoke, Bills emerges as an against-the-grain pitmaster. In a male-dominated business, she throws down brisket with the best and carves out a hot place in a cramped space: 250 square feet next to a burger spot and two hops across from a small bar.
Her reputation draws business. In 2018, Texas Monthly cited the pastrami from Mum Foods — the Austin smokehouse Bills co-founded — as best in state. Seven years later, Howdy Child customers have made “The Classic” the best-selling plate. It’s one-half pound of hand-carved pastrami brisket with yellow mustard and swiss cheese served on naturally fermented sourdough.
Few pitmasters earn Best in Texas recognition. Bills received the accolade at age 26.
It came as a surprise. Her pastrami was exceptional, the result of hard work and unique preparation.
“It just felt like I was following my path,” she said.
An eighth generation Texan, Bills is a descendent of butchers. Smoked meats are in her genes. But she did not aspire to a career in open fire cooking. Bills studied business at St. Edward’s University, dropped out to become a farmer, only to re-enroll as an environmental science major.
An unexpected door opened. After cooking for a farmer relief fundraiser, she was asked to return and start her own booth. “It was a very exciting part-time weekend opportunity for a college student,” said Bills, who relocated from Austin to San Antonio.
After graduating, Bills and her then boyfriend sold breakfast items cooked to order. The brisket became popular. They added pastrami, beef ribs, half chickens and handmade beef sausage to the menu.
A business was born.
Bills grew up in a house full of cookbooks. Her grandparents ran a sandwich shop in Dallas. Her father built a smoker. Her mother was so adept in the kitchen, her children told her, “Mom, you should open a restaurant.”
Bills ended up opening her own. She also opened a butcher shop. Customers poured into her Austin smokehouse, and it wasn’t long before Mum Foods became a go-to spot for brisket and pastrami. She was destined to be a pitmaster.
Some years ago, Bills posted a photo of wood and fire on her Instagram account. She wrote: “My pops had this smoker built before I was born. It sits on my granddaddy’s old trailer. I’m so thankful that they passed this little bit of Texas culture down to me. I wish they could be here now.”
Success may have come quickly. But it did not come accidentally. Bills inherited the rugged work ethic of her father and grandfather. Just ask Brooke Dinsmore, Howdy Child’s general manager. She’s worked side by side with Bills for years.
“Matti is small but she’s mighty,” Dinsmore said. “The physicality of this work is challenging. You are loading tons of wood throughout the day. And in the dead of summer in Texas when it’s already 100-something degrees outside. And you’re standing in front of a 275-degree smoker.
“It’s borderline second nature for her at this point. I think her body is used to being able to lift and do it. It’s crazy. We’re crazy people. You gotta love it to do it, without a doubt. But I wouldn’t change it for anything.”
Neither would Mills. The work is hard and the grind takes a toll. But there’s something sweet, really wonderful, watching eyes light up with that first bite of smoked meat.
Not everyone comes for The Classic. The pastrami Reuben also sells well.
A black and white sign behind the counter reminds customers of a special that rivals the best-seller: “SAT & SUN ONLY! BBQ.” Bills transports 400 pounds of barbecue from her San Marcos butcher shop, Three Six General, on weekends. She sells out quickly.
Eleven years into the business, Bills recognizes a shift. There are more pitmasters that look like her. Tootsie Tomanetz is the best-known. A James Beard nominee, her smoked meat at Snow’s BBQ in Lexington is legendary. The ranks of accomplished female pitmasters also include Sloan Rinaldi of Texas Q in Kingwood and Laura Loomis from Two Bros. BBQ in San Antonio.
“I am officially one of many, a group of women who are changing the narrative of what it means to make barbecue in Texas,” Bills said. “It’s not a boys club anymore. I have never let anything male dominated hold me back from following my dreams.”
What makes Bills stand out?
“She’s just so driven,” Dinsmore said. “If any problem arises, she will try and find a solution. She never gives up.”
Howdy Child opened in March 2023. Bills supports her deli with a small urban farm, where she grows lettuces for salads and vegetables for pickling at Howdy Child.
Business grew. Operations expanded. Bills and a staff of 20 run farmers markets in Austin, Cedar Park, New Braunfels and Buda, along with the San Marcos butcher shop and the Pearl’s Howdy Child.
The vision has grown as well. Bills wants to launch the next generation of pitmasters. So she is training her team, not just how to smoke and serve, but how to become leaders in the business of barbecue.
