Rolling green hills dotted with sprawling vineyards along a collection of long, skinny lakes is the backdrop that lures many to the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. This is not what we got. We showed up to something even better. When you live upstate in the path of lake-effect snow, magical flakes don’t just happen on cue—they’re perpetually falling. And they’re not always idyllic; sometimes, they’re mixed with ice and don’t stop for days and days until there’s five feet on the ground. So, you grab a hat and gloves and learn to embrace it, preferably in a cozy cabin somewhere.

If there were to be a Finger Lakes village put into a snow globe, painted on a postcard, or used as the setting for a Hallmark movie, it would, without a doubt, be Skaneateles. The downtown area skirts the north end of Skaneateles Lake, with people walking their dogs past local boutiques, window-shopping, and browsing restaurant menus. A white gazebo is an icon of the town, the centerpiece within the community’s waterside park and a natural gathering place. The lake itself comes to life when hit by the sun, turning an impossibly vibrant shade of blue, and, with the contrast of the stark white snow, it’s beauteous. There’s almost always an event, whether a planned interactive street theater festival or an impromptu Sunday afternoon ice hockey game on the frozen lake.

My best friend was visiting from Texas and wanted the epitome of a wintry weekend escape, so we landed in Skaneateles on the heels of a winter storm. Although there are boutique hotels in town, we chose to stay five minutes down the east side of the lake at a dog-friendly cabin so that my pup, Scout, could join our girls weekend.

Bundled in layers, we played follow the leader with Scout on a brisk walk along the creekside Charlie Major Nature Trail, approximately a mile outside of town. Old railroad remnants and millwork building ruins make this more than just a nature path, but the pièce de résistance pops partway: a fork in the trail with a sign promising craft beer just up yonder to the right. The decision was made without uttering a word, and before we knew it, the Skaneateles Brewery and bonus Last Shot Distillery appeared as if in a dream. As usual, Scout was the most popular guest as we sampled some of their brews like the Glen Haven Cure Ale, a spiced apple wheat variety that fit the cozy winter drink bill quite nicely.

Our brewery visit left us in festive spirits, and we followed it up with dinner at an upscale Mexican eatery called Elephant and the Dove. We saddled up to the bar, our curiosity putting us in possession of a massive mountain of nachos, two orders of bang bang shrimp tacos, and a pitcher of margaritas—their $50 Thursday special. Per any weekend escape, food dominated our plans. Our next morning’s mission was fueled by rumors of a true New York bagel spot in the next town over. The rumors were right. Auburn Bagel Company, a small-batch New York City-style bagel joint, fulfilled our carb craving. In one bite, I was reunited with the top-notch bagels from my years spent living in Manhattan. Their egg everything bagel was so fresh from the oven that toasting was unnecessary, and I was thrilled.

The following day, a frozen waterfall by the name of Carpenter Falls beckoned us from the opposite side of the lake. Our boots crunched along the boardwalk through a bed of giant trees. With very little effort, we reached the overlook, the waterfall a pileup of giant icicles hanging over the cliff. On our return trip, our timing worked out well for a stop at Anyela’s Vineyards, Skaneatele’s winery. It was a full house inside; patrons tapping their feet to the bluegrass-style cover band. I opted for the blended feature tasting, with two whites and two reds, crowning the cabernet franc as my favorite while picking at the generous charcuterie plate.

When your cabin rental has an entire garage-turned-game room with a pool table, darts, and scooters, at least one night needs to be an evening in with pizza takeout. Enter Gilda’s, a pocket-sized wood-fired pizza place with a tiny bar and a heavy-handed pour of their very drinkable house wine.

The snow started to fall again as Scout snuggled on the couch and we tucked into arancini and pizza. It was the perfect final scene to our girls weekend.