I Took a 91-hour Amtrak Train Ride With My 1-year-old Baby — What It Was Like

As I looked at my baby sleeping soundly on a booth-like seat, surrounded by silence and the scenic California views passing outside the window, I realized I’d made the right choice. We were traveling across the country — from San Francisco to Savannah — on an Amtrak train.

When I told people about this adventure, we got differing responses. Some were excited, while others believed taking a seven- to 10-hour plane ride was a better idea. So, as I embarked on my 91-hour journey from Emeryville, California, I was a little nervous.

But my nerves subsided the moment I realized I had to get to the station only one hour ahead of time, which gave me plenty of time to check my luggage. Rather than dealing with a complicated airport security check, all while trying to keep my baby entertained, we simply went straight to the platform and into the train. There, a train assistant helped us with our carry-on luggage and stroller, and showed us to our private room.

I booked a roomette, which has two wide seats facing each other and a large window. At night, the seats transform into a bed (where baby Isla and I slept) and a second bed is pulled from above (this one for my husband), creating a bunk bed. The car has restrooms and a shower, which are shared with the other roomette guests in the car. For more privacy and space, a bedroom with an in-room restroom and shower, can also be booked.

The Journey Begins

To get from the West Coast to the East Coast, you have to take three different trains. The first one is the California Zephyr, which starts in Emeryville and ends in Chicago after 52 hours. This train has an observation car on the second level, with large, panoramic windows that even cover a section of the roof. Here, there are seats looking out and some tables. This was the perfect place to spend time with my 1-year old. On the first day, we sat on a table and prepared her breakfast, then walked along the hallway between the seats. People were relaxed, admiring the landscape and eager to chat. We met an elderly couple on their way to Roseville, California, to meet their first great grandson; a family traveling to New York; a man heading to a business trip in Chicago; and a woman and her 100-year old mom who were visiting relatives in North Carolina.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included when you have a private room. And although my baby’s meals weren’t part of the rate, since she didn’t pay for a ticket, there was nothing to worry about as portions are abundant. Chef-prepared meals include flat iron steak, an oven-roasted salmon, and a vegetarian pasta primavera. After a hearty lunch — Isla and I shared a burger — she had her bottle and napped while I enjoyed the changing landscape from California to Nevada, where snowy hillsides and pine trees were covered in the golden light of the afternoon sun.

While we slept, we left Nevada behind and entered Utah. Several of our friends disembarked in Salt Lake City and newcomers joined in the middle of the night. One of the best moments was when I opened my eyes in the morning and was surprised with the impressive views around Green River, Utah. The landscape had drastically changed, and I enjoyed the scenery from my bed — red rocky hills, small bushes, dramatic canyons, and some deer drinking water.

After breakfast, it was harder to get a seat in the observation car. People rush in early since the train crosses into Colorado around 9 a.m., and nothing compares to the beauty it offers. Valleys with peaceful lakes, snow-covered peaks from the Rocky Mountains, bright-red rocky hillsides, and lush vegetation create a postcard-worthy moment anywhere you look. We settled at a table with a bag of my baby’s toys and enjoyed the view as the conductor on the loudspeaker directed our gaze to a moose drinking water from the Colorado River, a bald eagle sitting on its nest atop a tree, and other notable sightings.

The Colorado River accompanies the train for a long stretch. The section of the river preceding Glenwood Springs brought a wave of laughter and surprise after the conductor blew the horn for no apparent reason and announced, “Welcome to what’s known as moon river.” Rafters of all ages didn’t hesitate to pull down their pants and “moon” the passengers as the conductor encouraged them by blowing the horn. Apparently, it’s a decades-long tradition that continues to create excitement for both rafters and riders.

And then there was Glenwood Springs. Passengers are allowed to hop off the train at some stations to stretch their legs for a few minutes. Although most stations don’t offer much to look at, this one is worth enjoying. The quaint town looks like something out of a storybook, and the station is right at the heart of it. You can breathe in the fresh air among the coniferous trees and look at charming stores, with red rocky mountains in the background. As for my girl, she enjoyed walking on the grass while picking up leaves before we hopped back on.

Scenery Like No Other

Traveling with a baby requires flexibility, and that’s one of the perks of train travel. You don’t have to stay in the same place at all times. Once Isla grew tired, it was time to rest. Having a private room allows you to do that — and change diapers — without missing out on the views.

We kept the seats as a bed so she could play with her toys, watch a cartoon on my iPad (although there’s no Wi-Fi on the train), and nap. We weren’t worried if she overslept and we missed dinnertime since room service is available. With Isla resting right beside us, the conductor announced we were entering a long tunnel, and that the Rocky Mountains would be left behind at the end of it. That was one of the most breathtaking views — the mountains on one side and a long valley stretching into the distance at golden hour.

Dinner happened during the stop at the Denver station. While we slept, the train went through Nebraska, and when I opened my eyes the next morning, the landscape had changed once again. This section of the journey adds a new layer of things to see as the train goes through several farms and small towns.

Another highlight was crossing the Mississippi River. As we approached Chicago, both passengers and staff rushed to get everything ready to disembark. However, everything somehow slowed down when we crossed the river, and people’s faces turned toward the windows to enjoy the majesty of one of the world’s largest rivers.

After disembarking in Chicago, I was happily surprised with the experience being easier than anticipated, even with a baby and a lot of luggage. There were attendants helping with the bags and bringing them on cars to the complimentary lounge where people could wait for their next train. Flexibility, again, is key when you travel with a baby, so with a four-hour layover, we only left the station for a quick bite and then returned to the Metropolitan Lounge where there were couches, snacks, and a children’s play space. Tip: Taking a shower in a moving train can be challenging so it might be more comfortable to do so at the lounge.

From Forests to the City

Capitol Limited is the second train of the journey. It’s smaller and doesn’t have an observation car, but the 18-hour journey mainly takes place at night. Unlike the Zephyr, dinnertime is flexible as the restaurant car doesn’t have waitstaff, and the train departs almost at 7 p.m. A lot of people opt to eat in their own room, and that was the best option for us. Mom and dad got to have a calm dinner while baby recovered from a hectic day of changing trains.

The route goes through Indiana and Ohio during the night, and although it’s pretty dark, there are some sections where it’s possible to see the towns. The room has blackout curtains, but I kept them open since I was excited to see what was outside the window come morning. The surprise was a deep green forest in Pennsylvania.

Breakfast was served as the train entered Maryland. The forest was thick everywhere you looked, so much so that the humidity was almost palpable. And then, right as we entered West Virginia the impressive Potomac River came to view, with rich vegetation bordering its edges.

Once in Washington, D.C., there’s a Metropolitan Lounge. However, since the layover is over six hours, staying there for the entirety — especially with a 1-year old — is less than appealing. The station itself has lots to do, from restaurants to stores, and it’s possible to take a one-hour sightseeing tour that goes through the city — a nice option with a baby. Nearby, there are several museums, including the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum (a reservation is required).

Almost There

For the final stretch of this coast-to-coast trip, the Silver Meteor train became our home for the night. Although the route is quite historic, having been inaugurated in the 1930s, the train itself is the most modern of the three. The restaurant car was recently upgraded and we sat for dinner as the sun was setting in a room with dimmed lights, comfortable booths, and fresh roses on the table. The double windows allowed us to take in the last glimpses of Washington, D.C. as we left it behind.

The private rooms in this train feel more spacious. Since the train doesn’t have a second floor, the upper bed has more space and the person sleeping there can sit without hitting their head — something my husband appreciated greatly. This train also has more storage space for carry-on items, Wi-Fi, and a restroom and sink inside the roomette — although no door, so if you’re sharing the room, that’s not comfortable.

Before turning in for the night, the car assistant offered to bring warm water for my baby’s bottle and then told us to sleep without any worry since she would make sure to wake us up with plenty of time to make our stop in Savannah. And she did. A few hours before arriving, she knocked on our door so we could get ready, have a quick breakfast, and say our goodbyes.

Looking back, if I took this trip again, I would only change a few things, starting with how I packed. The rooms have enough space for a small bag, but not a big carry-on. I’d make sure all my bags were checked and I’d keep a small backpack with the essentials, including a change of clothes. As for traveling by train with a 1-year old? I’d do it again. Isla enjoyed each train to the fullest, walking through the hallways, trying new foods, and making friends along the way. However, instead of booking a roomette, I’d choose a family room, which has a bit more space, because our daughter basically took over the bed every night after a busy day exploring the country.