The clouds were upside down—or at least that’s how they seemed to me. I was three years old, flying for the first time from the U.K. to Jamaica, looking down at the puffs in the sky below us. It was the first of many trips with my parents during a childhood punctuated with transatlantic cruises, European vacations, and frequent trips to visit family in the Caribbean. I credit my dad, Tony, and mom, Peta, not only with igniting my desire to explore but also for giving me the confidence to do so. Now they are in their eighties and moving more slowly than they once did, and I’m reluctantly coming to terms with the fact that we may not have many more opportunities to travel together. 

I set about brainstorming. My first thought was an ocean cruise, something both my parents have enjoyed in the past. But the idea of being aboard a large ship with endless activities, numerous decks to navigate, and thousands of other passengers, felt overwhelming to me.

Instead, I suggested a European river cruise, a weeklong itinerary aboard the Viking Forseti that started and ended in Bordeaux, France. We would sail the Dordogne and Garonne rivers, past beautiful vineyards and châteaux. And with only four decks, the 95-cabin vessel would, I hoped, be easy for us all to handle.

Our journey from Miami required a role reversal from my childhood trips, with me striding ahead, leading the pack. I settled us into an airport lounge, fetched snacks from the buffet, and suggested a bathroom break before heading to the gate. I’d requested wheelchair assistance for my mother, who can walk but with some difficulty. She was hesitant—until we were escorted past a scrum of passengers to pre-board, then driven in an electric buggy to our connecting flight at sprawling Paris–Charles De Gaulle. I sensed that both my parents found the bustle overpowering.

One thing hadn’t changed: we still enjoyed a drink together. Finally aboard the Forseti after a 19-hour travel day, we clinked cocktails during the welcome briefing. Our affable cruise director, Henrique Coelho, explained that we would be sailing past famed Bordeaux appellations, including Médoc and St.-Émilion. So I was surprised when both my parents opted out of the complimentary excursions Viking had planned at every stop. My mom wanted to walk at her own pace and feared holding up the group; my dad, slowed by ongoing cancer treatment and a pickleball injury, decided to pass, too.

I reminded myself that the whole point was for us to spend time together. And skipping the excursions ended up having plenty of advantages. Most days, almost everyone departed the ship for their tours, leaving us to roam the Forseti as if it were our own private charter. My parents catnapped in chaises on the sun deck or sipped wine on rocking chairs on the Aquavit Terrace, an outdoor space at the bow of the ship. In the evenings, they’d strike up conversations with our fellow passengers. “She goes all the places we would have loved to go,” I overhead my mother say about me one evening, with both pride and a note of wistfulness.

I noticed the way my parents gingerly lowered themselves into seats—and the effort it took to get out of them. I watched my mother choose the elevator over a single flight of stairs, and I saw that my father no longer moved at the purposeful speed I’d seen all my life. Our trip made me painfully aware of their mortality—and, by extension, my own. They seemed perfectly content, chatting in the sun-dappled lounge or sitting in comfortable silence on their stateroom balcony, watching the scenery. But I found myself missing the energetic people they’d been, feeling both irritation and sadness that time hadn’t stood still.

Then, on the flight home, my mother leaned over, touched my arm, and asked, “Should we look into a Viking ocean sailing next summer? I think I’d enjoy another Caribbean cruise.” And I realized with relief that my fears may have been premature. Our family has plenty more trips left to take.

4 Tips for Traveling With Older Parents

Skip the Stopover

Opt for a nonstop flight to avoid the risk of missed connections and the general stress of changing planes. Google Flights lets you search a wide range of carriers to find the simplest nonstop options.

Arrange for Lounge Access

A premium credit card, such as Chase Sapphire Reserve, the Platinum Card from American Express, or the Capital One Venture X card, will get you into a lounge that’s a respite from the hubbub of the terminal.

Request Special Assistance

Rather than handle everything yourself, take advantage of services offered by airlines. Wheelchair assistance, pre-boarding, and order-ahead meals can make travel days easier on everyone.

Take It Slow

Once you’re in a destination or on a cruise ship, resist the urge to pack the itinerary. One activity a day—or even every other day—is enough when you slow down to savor each moment.

A version of this story first appeared in the March 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “A Different Pace.”