Alberto Caliri’s debut as Missoni’s creative director of Missoni came just a month after the family matriarch Rosita Missoni’s passing. “While working on the collection, I kept wondering if she would have approved,” he shared backstage before the show. “I could feel her guiding me, and I sensed Ottavio’s influence as well.” They would have certainly loved it. The collection ticked all the Missoni boxes, with Caliri adding his own consistent, experienced twist. 

Caliri’s long tenure at the company has given him a mastery of its codes, which he navigates with consummate energy. He rejuvenated Ottavio’s distinctive approach to dressing—the dashing, athletic founder had a knack for layering clashing patterns with a nonchalant touch. Caliri embraced this spirit with almost single-minded focus, a sort of parti pris that felt both intentional and persuasive. Silhouettes were strong, dynamic, and youthful: voluminous masculine cardigans, blousons, vests, and jackets were layered over shirts and tops, punctuated by oversized protective scarves—styled on bare legs, they were paired with miniskirts, or with jumpers and shirts worn as minidresses, and finished with flat shoes or boots. Rosita’s chromatic artistry was subtly recalled throughout, as classic Missoni patterns were reimagined in sophisticated, muted tones, accented with metallic flashes of shimmering lamé and sequined textures.

Caliri believes that Missoni has a strong identity that doesn’t require it to chase fleeting fads, as its nature is inherently modern. He’s probably right. He favors immediacy, a certain sensuality, consistency. “Missoni speaks for itself,” he remarked after his fine showing. “It doesn’t need overbearing storytelling.”