The MM6 design crew remains faithful to Martin Margiela’s methodology and ethos, carrying the flame with both reverence and ironic aplomb. For fall, they explored three core concepts: Enlarge, Reduce, Wardrobe. They infused the compelling collection with twisted Margelian classicism, positioning the creative process behind their practice at the center of the narration.

The three guidelines were seamlessly woven into the collection: “We wanted to offer a wearable, desirable wardrobe while keeping the conceptual side visible,” they explained. They also aimed to infuse the show with a “strong female energy,” reflected in the soundtrack featuring Nico alongside 1960s tango singer Tamara Lund.

Garments were expanded with removable structured and padded ‘hangers,’ designed to enhance the width of the shoulders and amplify the volume of classic tailored blazers, puffers, and masculine coats. Additionally, an adjustable back panel allowed for further enlargement, offering the flexibility to button or unbutton it based on the desired silhouette and comfort level.

The process of shrinking and reduction was achieved by layering a stretchy, ribbed, see-through T-shirt over second-skin dresses, shirts, or even a lightweight trench coat, compressing and trapping the garments beneath. To slim down trousers while making the transformation visible, side allowance seams were intentionally exposed. It was a clever, inventive engineering tour de force handled with restraint, control and understated elegance. That’s a word that would’ve made Martin Margiela cringe, but it does reflect the MM6 design team’s current moment of inspired creativity.