For his new fall collection, designer Naeem Khan—a skilled pro of eveningwear and gown-making—looked to fellow fashion innovators for inspiration. Particularly, Khan developed a fascination with some of the greatest American couturiers, citing names like Bill Glass or Geoffrey Beene in his research process. “They were such masters of what they did—and their silhouettes were very clean, simple, and American,” says Khan. With the spirit in mind, then, Khan found his direction, aiming to rework his signature glitzy dresses with a sense of ease and unfussy sophistication.

A nod to American fashion, naturally, meant sportswear references—an unexpected touch for someone like Khan, whose clientele is more suited to galas than game day. Many of his gowns this season were made with jersey—an easy, sporty fabric that he fancy-fied by embroidering it with golden bursts of sequins. “The gowns don’t wrinkle, so you can travel with them, put them on, and you’re ready to go,” said Khan.

For him, though, it was less about embracing Americana, and more about paring back the drama—allowing more subdued formal attire to shine with subtle detail work. His caftans, which his customers have been increasingly asking for, came in burgundy with golden accents. His feathered black gown, with a cinched sequined waist, felt more sleek and severe. “It has a Mad Max feel to it—very strong,” said Khan. A simple black off-the-shoulder velvet column gown, meanwhile, had a beaded bouquet of pink flowers peeking out at the bust—like a surprise. “It’s for a woman when she sits at the dinner table,” said Khan, who is always thinking of gala dressing. “You just see her shoulders.”

Still, the designer couldn’t help himself by adding a touch of excessiveness into the more subdued offering this season. There were enough crystals, for one, to light up the Empire State Building with the shine. Khan attempted to use the shimmering stones in new ways, like in degradé patterns on short-sleeve gowns, or as starry galaxy patterns inspired by the night sky. You’ll never catch Khan not doing disco ball dressing: His clients simply would not stand for it. “One of the reasons for our success is because we don’t wave left or right,” he said. “We are known for what we do. It’s classic, but there is a newness to it.”