Roísín Pierce’s voice was layered into the soundtrack that accompanied her sixth collection, which was presented for the second time at the Irish Embassy near the Arc de Triomphe. Her readings of Vladimir Nabokov and Sylvia Plath included a line from the former: “Beauty plus pity—that is the closest we can get to the definition of art.” There were also emotion-laden lyrics from Nina Simone and Mazzy Star interspersed with Pierce’s mother, Angie, singing an Irish traditional.

To hear these wistful extracts mixed as an atmospheric composition by Simon Parris suggests how Pierce uses impressively intricate handwork to translate the ways these references make her feel. Not that those feelings were easy to read (“It’s just a lot of feelings dancing,” she offered), and not that they needed to be. More that, as the models walked with measured grace through the salons in her monochrome white and inky blue creations, the accumulations of embroideries, crochet, and needlework were testaments tangibly expressing the intangible. Like when Pierce explained backstage how she wanted to suspend the transience of winter snowflakes and buds, hence the petals and coiling springs developed in soft relief swaying from the garments, or complex lattice reliefs in natural patterns atop others.

But there were also several looks that featured impressive applications of pin-tucking and smocking to define silhouettes, whether as alluring tube dresses, slinky pants, or airier tops with volumes away from the body. These were more wearable, less ethereal—and Pierce understands that the craft can exist on a continuum from delicate to everyday.

Without providing precise numbers, she confirmed that her designs often take days to complete and there are just a few pairs of hands in her studio to do so. These techniques are not easily scaled, but the outcome is rewarding. “They are very time-consuming, but then you have a really deep attachment,” she said. And it seems she is exploring how the brand can broaden commercially and creatively. Beyond continuing with the Dover Street Market showroom, Pierce used the show to debut a collaboration with Polène, the ever-popular bag line. Covered in her familiar lattice and encased in leather bows, there was a thuriblelike orb as well as small clutches. Stephen Jones, whose retrospective is still on at the Palais Galliera, conceived enchanting headpieces—one resembling flower pistils, the other jewel-embellished cake fondant. A cool shoe collab—practical-meets-precious and in all white, of course—seems like an obvious next step.