Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin (Best Quality Daugher) has earned three nominations, including once as Best Emerging Chef. Other local chefs have received nominations since the category was changed in 2020 to Best Chef: Texas. But no one has won since the James Beard Foundation began recognizing exceptional achievement in the culinary arts 34 years ago.
“A James Beard award would put San Antonio on the map,” said Hinnerk von Bargen, chef and instructor at CIA. “It would draw more talent into San Antonio and make it more interesting for culinary professionals to work here. It would inspire others.”
San Antonio currently has six semifinalists for Best Chef: Texas, the most of any city in the state: Dobbertin of Best Quality Daughter ; Emil Oliva of Leche de Tigre; John Ramos and Jonathan Reyes of Chika ; Grey Hwang of Shiro Japanese Bistro ; Leo Davila of Stixs & Stone, which recently closed; and siblings Alex Sarmiento and Brenda Sarmiento of El Pastor es mi Señor .
“We are really excited,” said Diego Galicia, Mixtli co-owner and chef. “This is the second time we get nominated for a national award and those are particularly special. We have a stellar team.”
An awards committee of industry volunteers, food writers and judges selects semifinalists, finalists and winners. Finalists will be announced on Wednesday, winners on June 16.
Last year’s winner for Best Chef: Texas, Ana Elizabeth Pulido, studied under von Bargen at the CIA. She graduated in 2019, worked in San Antonio, then moved to Mission where she opened Ana Liz Taqueria in 2021.
“I remember her as a very quiet and sometimes timid student,” von Bargen said. “I’m extremely excited for her and very happy to see how much she’s grown.”
Judges sometimes find culinary achievement in unexpected places. Pulido had five tables when she was named Best Chef: Texas. She has since expanded, more than quadrupling her taqueria in size to accommodate 50 customers.
El Pastor es mi Señor can accommodate 22 customers inside and 20 outside. Although the taqueria has been featured in Texas Monthly — “This San Antonio Joint Might Serve the Best Tacos al Pastor in Texas” — the owners never considered a James Beard nomination possible.
“We were completely blindsided when it happened,” said CEO and chef Brenda Sarmiento. “I logged into the James Beard website out of curiosity. I wanted to see if any of our friends had made it. When I saw our name, I had to do a double-take. Like, what? I texted my brother. It was early in the morning. ‘Are you sitting down?’”
Alex Sarmiento was stepping into the shower when his sister texted him.
“It was a super surprise,” Alex said. “We never thought they would even consider us. When I got the text, I thought we might not make it to the next round, so let’s not make a big deal out of it.”
The siblings aren’t your typical Tex-Mex culinarians. They grew up in Mexico City, developed a love for sushi and opened their first restaurant, Yellowfish Sushi, as a bold fusion experiment. They called it “Japamex.”
The Sarmientos’ launched a virtual restaurant, Pink Fish, in 2017 before opening their taqueria in 2020.
“Even if we don’t make it to the next round,” Alex said, “the fact that we were considered, that our work was acknowledged is a moment for us to reflect and be really grateful. Regardless of what happens, it’s an honor for us.”
James Beard was a pioneering chef, prolific cookbook author and the first to host a cooking program on television. A James Beard award elevates careers and restaurants. A nomination often triggers a boost in traffic.
“It helped us,” Brenda said. “Business has been great.”
Austin led all cities in the state last year with five semifinalists for Best Chef: Texas, followed by San Antonio, Houston and Dallas with three apiece. San Antonio leaped to the front this year with six nominees, followed by Houston with four, Austin and Marfa each with two, and Dallas and several smaller cities with one apiece.
“It means San Antonio is up and coming,” von Bargen said. “The culinary scene is getting more vibrant, gaining more notoriety and drawing people into the city.”
As Wednesday’s announcement approaches, anticipation is building. Some chefs are tamping down expectations, trying to avoid disappointment. Others are embracing the moment.
“I have it as a calendar event so I’ll be excited to check the news when I wake up,” Dobbertin said. “I’m happy for anyone who makes it to the next round, and hoping San Antonio can bring home their first win this year.”
