“I feel it’s for me to continue expanding on the girls in the world. To go beyond representation, so it’s about the community.” So said Sinead O’Dwyer, whose complex, body-inclusive techniques developed a slickness and glamour this season. It was announced on a literally slick note—a shiny black patent leather cape.

Perhaps that was a little French-accented. O’Dwyer is preparing to take her collection to Paris for the the semi-finals of the LVMH prize next month. She will be the only designer in contention who is specifically dedicated to framing all kinds of bodies in considerate and empoweringly sexy ways. Her polished leather micro kilts and lace-front black leather jeans contrasted with bubble skirts and tailored bra-shirts.

High-laced boots, on conceptual bubble-soles (a collab with the Japanese brand Grounds) completed the look. There are codes within codes in O’Dywer’s work. The criss-cross lacing in dresses and other garments allows the wearer to personalize the fit and decide how much skin she’ll show. It also hints at a touch of bondage—and, in the designer’s mind, the memory of the fastenings on Irish dance shoes.