I’m driving down a sleepy country road in Martinborough on a sunny summer afternoon in pursuit of wine. Having read about a natural winemaker who produces a sparkling Pinot Noir and Riesling blend, I’m thrilled to discover the cellar door is marked as open on my phone. Only thing is, it’s closed. “Ah mate, I wasn’t planning on it today I’m out on the tractor,” the man responds when I ring to inquire if they’re open for walk-in tastings. He asks if I’m around tomorrow morning (I’m not), he apologizes, and we say goodbye. And that, dear reader, is an interaction my husband (a New Zealand citizen) characterizes as “so kiwi.” A contact number that dials straight to the winemaker’s cell phone—who is, at present, working on his tractor out in the vineyard. The instant familiarity of it all is so endearing and humorous that I can’t help but track down a bottle in a local shop and enjoy it with dinner that evening. This is why you travel to New Zealand. Not just for the exceptional wines, but for these supremely authentic interactions that are born from an unfailing dedication to the land. (I have no doubt if I had in fact been available the next morning, my anecdote here would be much more layered.)
You also come to New Zealand wine country for the legendary landscapes, which are as impossibly breathtaking as you always imagined they would be. On a recent monthlong sojourn roadtripping around the various wine regions in the country, I drove an ATV quad bike into a hillside sheep paddock, through a scenic riverbank, and out onto a black sand beach. I hopped into a four-wheel-vehicle at 10 p.m. to search for the elusive kiwi bird, steering into thick bush and spotting a total of three. I packed a wine lunch and hiked to a remote, private coastline for the most staggeringly picturesque picnic I will likely ever have. And I sped along a lakeside trail on a mountain bike, cycling across suspension bridges and beside craggy bluffs. This is what to expect when you come to New Zealand wine country. A taste of adventure, wine, and the good life.
Ahead, six destinations to add to your itinerary, moving from north to south.
Northland
Best For: Tranquil bays, Māori culture, water activities.
The Landing in the Bay of Islands. Photo: Kirstie Bedford
