At some brands, a design studio with no single reigning creative force is a recipe for chaos. At Theory, that doesn’t seem to be the case. Following former chief creative officer Jeffrey Kalinsky’s departure in April, the brand has been shepherded by Dushane Noble and Martin Andersson—head of womenswear and menswear, respectively, who easily fell into lockstep after more than a decade of working together. “We share a lot of fabrics so it makes sense that there’s a relationship between the Theory man and woman,” Noble said. He pointed to sportswear as an example. “Even some of the sort of sporty elements that the Theory man is known for, we’ve been starting to bring into women’s. There’s a language that we’re sharing, and it just feels so important to work together to connect the dots.”

Rather than taking inspiration from a specific subject, Noble and Andersson approached fall 2025 with an emphasis on… well… theory. “It was inspired by the study of clothes,” Noble said. “The principle for us was seven items within a modern wardrobe: skirt, pants, shirt, jacket, dress, outwear, knitwear. The practice is coming up with solutions for a modern woman’s wardrobe.” While it’s not exactly reinventing the wheel, Theory clearly has a strong vision for a woman on the go, perhaps best exemplified by an unassuming, office-friendly H-line skirt, which blossomed into a chic staple. “When you move, it gives you a beautiful trumpet silhouette,” Noble said.

“Conscientiousness” seemed to be the operative word at Theory this season. Every aspect of the collection, from the materials to the construction was deeply considered. Sustainability and circular fashion were also a frequent talking point. “This comes from this very sheep,” Andersson told me, pointing to a photo of a sheep he met in Australia where Theory sources their wool. Before me was, apparently, the ewe’s product: a tailored gray double-faced coat. “It’s such a beautiful story that we can trace it back to the farm,” he added. Beyond that, wool waste is spun by the mill into new yarn. But Theory wants the product to speak for itself. “It’s this idea of circular without it screaming ‘I’m recycled,’” Noble said. “It looks very chic, and it’s a way of us being responsible.”