Matteo Tamburini is finding his footing at Tod’s, evolving the sharp, streamlined look he introduced in his debut collection three seasons ago. At today’s presentation his approach felt stronger, warmer, more nuanced—and it featured a lineup of pretty terrific outerwear too.
The show took place at PAC, the Contemporary Art Pavilion: designed in the 1950s in a modernist style, the building was damaged by a Mafia bombing in the ’90s and later rebuilt. Upon entering the venue, guests were welcomed by an unexpected art installation: a statuesque Carla Bruni-Sarkozy standing on a high plinth, draped in a recycled leather blanket created by artist Nelly Agassi and holding an oversized needle—a nod to the artisanal savoir faire at the core of Tod’s. The coup de théâtre left people starstruck.
Craft was the focus of Tamburini’s approach as he pivoted the collection on neat silhouettes enhanced by tactile textures: fuzzy brushed alpaca, smooth leather, plush shearling, and ribbed mélange knits. “I wanted to emphasize the feel of the hand and make the surfaces eloquent,” he said at a preview, explaining that he drew inspiration from the textural works of Italian artists Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri, and Lucio Fontana. Outerwear stood out in particular, with coats that were slender and elongated, often cinched at the waist or accented with half-belts at the back. A highlight was a slim fitted jacket in thick brushed-alpaca jacquard with raw, furry edges, which was paired with a matching scarf that framed the face and black trousers tucked into high leather boots.
Today minimalism takes on many forms; it has become fashion’s Esperanto. Tamburini’s interpretation had a softer edge, evident in olive green double-cashmere capes lined with leather and draped over matching peacoats and in the undulating asymmetrical hems of sleeveless dresses, with elongated bodices that gently skimmed the body. “I wanted to convey a version that feels less dry, less flat,” he said. Tamburini certainly achieved that—his minimalism was both expressive and poised.
